I saw a great circle shirt tutorial on Pinterest and thought I’d give it a try.
It looked so easy.
So I found some pretty floral sheer fabric on the cheap rack at WalMart and thought it would be so pretty and flowy. I cut it out and got out my serger to narrow roll hem the edges. That’s when the hair pulling and temper tantrum began. I just couldn’t get the machine to stitch right. I read the manual. I adjusted the tension. I looked online for advice. I even cleaned and oiled that blasted machine. Finally I stomped my feet, gnashed my teeth and gave up for a few days. I bought more fabric...still a little sheer, but cotton and not slippery like the first fabric. I decided I needed some kind of stabilizer to help the fabric go through. I thought to myself, “I wish they made stabilizer that just dissolved when I washed it.” And guess what? They DO make dissolving stabilizer! What a discovery! The stuff I found at Joann’s was called Sulky Water Soluble Stabilizer. I thought it would solve my problems for sure.
I brought it home and fed it through my serger, only to hear something snap. It was only a very critical METAL part of the lower looper. Great. Another tantrum ensued.
So I gave up and bought a jersey knit fabric from WalMart for $2/yd. I cut out the shirt, sewed two lines and tah-dah! All my problems solved. So simple. Why, oh why, didn’t I just get jersey knit in the first place?!?!
Want to try the circle shirt? The easy version that only took a half hour to make?
Materials:
- 1 yard 60” wide jersey knit or other knit fabric that does not fray. You can use 45" fabric, but your shirt will be pretty short.
- Matching thread
- Yep, that’s it!
Step 1: Fold the fabric in half and square up the edges so that all the corners are 90 degree angles.
Step 2: Round off the two bottom edges. An easy trick to make sure both sides are even: round one side, then move the scrap you just cut off over to the other side to use as your guide.
Step 3: Cut a neck hole. I used a favorite tank as a guide.
To make sure both sides were symmetrical, I folded the shirt down the center the other direction and evened out the curves around the neck:
Step 4: Sew two lines up the sides to fit around your middle. My fabric is not super stretchy, so I left it pretty loose. I also didn’t sew perfectly straight because my mid-section is not straight. I curved the line to fit the curves of my body.
You are done! I told you it was easy…as long as you use no-fray knit fabric.





Already got this year's costumes in the works, so stay tuned! Hee hee hee. I love Halloween!
Step 3: Pack each jar full of beans. Pack them as tightly as possible, leaving a one inch head space. That roughly works out to filling it to the line at the top of the can.
Step 4: Fill each jar with water, again leaving a one inch head space.
Step 7: Put a lid on each jar and screw the ring on as tight as you can. Place the jars carefully into the water. In large canners, you can stack them two high. Put the lid on the canner and seal it up. On this particular canner, you leave the little black cap off the steam vent for now.
Step 8: Set a timer for 8 minutes from the time you hear steam whistling out of the top of the canner: Place the pressure gauge on and when it starts to wiggle, turn the heat down to medium (4/10) and set the timer again for 20 minutes. Differente elevations require different pressure. Because I was canning at 5,000 feet, I needed 15 pounds of pressure. Check with your local extension office to find out what pressure you need.
Step 9: After 20 minutes, do NOT open the lid of your canner. If you do, hot water, shards of glass and your precious beans will explode into your face. Instead, remove the pot from the burner and wait a few hours until the pressure release valve goes completely down and does not pop back up when pressed lightly with your finger. Then it is safe to remove the lid on your canner.